I was drawn to this experience on a 12,000 acre working ranch located in Western Montana near Yellowstone National Park - the Lazy EL Ranch, because it's one of the few places in America where you can participate in a cattle drive.

I found it to be anything but "Lazy", and if your mind or your mirror tell you that you need an active adventure (cowboy style) complete with hiking, horseback riding, and the cherry on the icing: An actual cattle drive - this could put a big smile on your face.

We (the ten guests for the week) converged from various flights at the Billings airport around noon on Saturday.

On arrival and departure we were transported to and from the airport (no car rental needed) by their emerald green van to the ranch.

Eight men and two women from scattered cities and towns across the U.S. An attorney, a university assistant professor, a sales rep from a brewing company, a self-proclaimed computer nerd (one of the women), a community theater manager, and a college media communications teacher, will give you a clue as to the diversity. Usually, the Lazy EL books one group at a time, one family or groups of friends. But this week, the ranch was open to individuals who book one of the twelve spots available.

You'll spend most of your waking hours with the other guests, in activities, in transit to activities, and at meals and hopefully your chemistry will be good. When you have a very diverse group in close proximity for a week it can get scratchy. Fortunately, our group was bonded almost instantly though a fine sense of humor.

Another thing: Don't expect to find True Love during the week. Probably not even False Lust. If your fantasy is to ride off into the western sunset with Angeline Jolie or Brad Pitt- bring them with you - that's the only way it's going to happen. Nature is the shining star here. It's exactly that purity that attracts most participants. That, plus story swapping, laughs and team building activities melt away any big city reserves. Friendships sometimes evolve and continue (the two women still have a nurturing email acquaintance), but your relationship with nature is what it's all about.

You'll stay either in the comfortably rustic log lodge or in one of the log cabins spread out on the property. The lodge, built in 1919, has a solid feeling of comfortable tradition. It is decorated with Navajo rugs and original western art which gives a true sensibility of the past of the old west. I felt like I was walking onto the set of "Bonanza". The cozy fieldstone fireplace pulls guests to it and helps create a warmth and intimacy. There is no daily maid service, but if you want linens changed - just ask. I jokingly asked if they'd put chocolates on my pillow and he said "Yeah. Melted." Western humor is so salty.

In the lodge, ask for the Granny Kay room. The bathroom has a 20's tub and a wood fireplace! Here's where you live out your fantasy as John Wayne or Barbara Stanwyck while soaking in a soapy tub after a tough day on the range. The view from that room and the porch outside it is - here comes that deeply used and abused word - awesome. But in this case the word is correctly applied. From this vantage point the sensual rolling hills, framed by 12,000 foot snow-capped peaks is the picture perfect place anytime for a staggering panoramic view, but particularly in the early morning or late afternoon when the horses go to or come home from pasture. Their slow, loping single-file parade is nothing short of majestic in the golden light.

Meals are generally served in the cookhouse. It is not haute cuisine but appropriate to the place and the activities. I found the food to be basic, no frills ranch food. Everybody eats together family style. By interacting with the people working the ranch, you understand what day-to-day living and the machinations of a working ranch really are. Everybody is friendly and will answer your questions.

The horse riding activities for the week are based on the capabilities, experience and desires of the group, and the whims of Mama Nature. Each day's activities are different than the day before. On the first morning we hiked out into the hills to two ponds, returned for lunch at the cookhouse, and in the afternoon the expert guides matched us with the right horse. As I was going to be photographing and taking notes in the saddle, I asked for a horse that would stand still for a few moments to allow picture taking. The horse did stop. And stayed there. Starting was another matter to which he expressed no interest. I called him Cement. The horse, ironically, was named Lightning. Yeah. Rrrright. Happily you can change horses.

 go to page 2